As soon as the spring equinox passes, the weather starts to warm up. The drift ice on the Yellow Sea gradually melts away, the flowering peaches on Shaoguan Road bloom once again into a dazzling sea of blossoms, and Qingdao begins to welcome its best season of the year.

So, besides “sea bathing, beer drinking, and eating gala,” what else can you do on a weekend in Qingdao?

10:00 University Road

The city’s original internet-famous street, and also the first modern road in Qingdao’s history.
If you haven’t taken a photo in front of the red wall and glazed yellow tiles at the corner of University Road and Yushan Road, you’re not quite on trend. But getting a shot that looks completely empty amid the crowds takes some real skill.

Behind the red wall is the Qingdao Art Museum, formerly the site of a charitable organization. Even the building itself feels all-embracing in style.
The entrance features a Romanesque portico hall, the middle section has a Chinese-style main hall and courtyard, and the rear end is an Islamic-style building.
Even the Corinthian columns at the main entrance bear a pair of Chinese couplets, yet somehow it all works.

The hall’s dome is beautiful, and inside the otherwise solemn-looking museum, the walls are painted a fresh Morandi green.

The black-and-white floor tiles look like a chessboard.

The museum sometimes hosts lesser-known exhibitions. I remember that when I visited, it seemed to be a traditional Chinese painting exhibition from a prefecture-level city somewhere in western China.

Visitors viewing the exhibition intently. As long as you don’t disturb others, this is also a great place for tasteful personal photos.

Turn left when you leave the museum and you’ll reach Lao She’s Former Residence. On Huangxian Road, there are also a few slightly kitschy cafés where you can stop for a break.
About a 10-minute walk from University Road, Yishui Road and Longshan Road are lined with distinctive European-style buildings. The former Jiaozhou German Governor’s Office and the former German Naval Headquarters, among others, make it feel as though you’re walking through a Lego streetscape.

Former German Naval Headquarters @Ctrip

You absolutely shouldn’t miss the former German Governor’s Residence. Even if you skip the villas in Badaguan, this one alone is worth the trip—more than enough, in fact.
It brings together multiple architectural styles in a single building, and every door, window, and handrail has its own function and distinctive detail. No wonder even Liang Sicheng spoke highly of it.

@prculture
From the governor’s residence, climb uphill—or rather, a small slope—for a few minutes and you’ll reach the Signal Hill summit viewing platform. From here, looking out over the scenery, you can probably understand what “facing the sea, with spring blossoms” is meant to feel like.

12:00 Badaguan

Many people go to Badaguan just to rush through a few photo stops at places like Butterfly House and Princess House, but there’s really no need.

The beauty of Badaguan can probably be summed up in eight Chinese characters: “red tiles, green trees, blue sea, blue sky.”

Imagine a hot summer afternoon, with a breeze coming in from the sea, a cold drink in hand, and a close friend beside you as you wander aimlessly under the shade of the trees—while casually reviewing your geography, since the crisscrossing roads are named after famous ancient military passes.

There are more than 200 small villas here, each with its own story. If you spot one you like, you can admire it, imagine the lives of its past residents, and then keep walking to appreciate the different trees and flowers along each road.

Slow down. Relax. That’s the best way to experience the beauty of this neighborhood.

14:00 Olympic Sailing Center

If you go to the Olympic Sailing Center, don’t just stroll around and miss the chance to actually sail out onto the water.

When I was younger, I watched the Volvo Ocean Race and was endlessly fascinated by the idea of a 40,000-nautical-mile journey across four oceans.

Even if a slightly expanded waistline now stands in the way of grand maritime adventures, you can still fulfill a 60-minute sailor dream here.

Sailing experiences here are also fairly approachable in price. In about an hour, you can learn the basics of hoisting the sails, steering, and changing direction. Even kids around seven or eight years old can come aboard.
Since we’re all already on life’s pirate ship, we might as well be happy pirates.

16:00 Xiaomai Island

When the sunlight softens, head to Xiaomai Island for a stroll. Probably because it’s removed from the traditional tourist areas—though not actually that far away—the island has the feel of a hidden gem.

It takes about an hour or so to walk around Xiaomai Island. Lawns cover most of the island, with the rest given over to jagged rocks. The waves are fast and strong, crashing into the stones and throwing up spray.

At this time of day, it’s easy to capture the clean, artsy feel of a Japanese or Korean seaside island. Straight-out-of-camera shots from Fujifilm or Ricoh look especially good.

Coastal cities tend to have great cafés, and Qingdao is no exception. After taking photos, find a café, sip coffee while looking out at the sea, and it’s hard not to unwind.

@一日呢

18:00 No. 1 Bathing Beach

Qingdao has nine bathing beaches, each with its own character: No. 1 is the classic choice with a great location and lovely sunsets; No. 2 is crowded; No. 3 has clearer water and more activities; No. 6 is near Zhanqiao and packed with tourists; and Shilaoren is broad but has rougher waves.

@Qunar 吕欢 726
Unlike Sanya’s resort-style beaches, Qingdao’s bathing beaches feel more like large seaside city parks. In summer, you’ll find people digging in the sand, swimming, and selling snacks and icy drinks—everything all together.
Lower your expectations for postcard-perfect ocean views and come experience the famous crowds for yourself. I still remember my first trip to Qingdao in third grade: I was stunned by just how packed the bathing beach was.

@东方网
Near No. 1 Bathing Beach, there’s a small viewing platform that’s a great spot for watching the sunset over the sea. Lean against the railing as the setting sun gradually turns the sky golden, while out on the water people paddle SUP boards and paraglide.

Little by little, the sun disappears, the sky takes on a hint of lavender, and then everything settles into quiet.

If you’d rather not be bothered by the crowds, consider staying near Shilaoren. On the beach early in the morning, you’ll see only a few locals jogging or briskly walking by the sea—a rare moment of summer tranquility in Qingdao.

20:00 May Fourth Square

Although the May Fourth Movement did not take place in Qingdao, it was sparked by Qingdao. After dinner, take a walk along Shandong Road and you’ll arrive at May Fourth Square.
Get there before 8:00 to claim a good spot and watch a dazzling light show. The high-rises along Fushan Bay become a giant illuminated screen.
The light show has several segments; this one is apparently about Shandong’s scenery and architecture.

I spotted Confucius, but I couldn’t identify the others.

Take a closer look at the striking sculpture, May Wind.
Stroll along Fushan Bay with the summer breeze on your face and a bag of fresh Tsingtao draft beer in hand—it’s a wonderfully relaxing feeling.

Speaking of that unpasteurized draft beer, it’s genuinely delicious. Even someone like me, who can’t really drink much, can appreciate its rich aroma.
When I used to live in Qingdao, there was a little convenience shop downstairs that would fill a plastic bag straight from the tap for you to take home. This time, though, I found fewer and fewer places still selling it that way. Most now offer prettier canned or packaged versions of the draft beer, which is a bit of a shame.

If you happen to come across a small shop in Qingdao that still sells beer in plastic bags, don’t miss it.

10:00 Beer Museum

If you didn’t have quite enough to drink the night before, head to the Tsingtao Beer Museum the next day.
Curious visitors can see the full process of how a can or bottle of beer is made. There’s also a very fun holographic projection with built-in 4D effects, and it comes with a nice surprise at the end.

@超级小包子
This old brewery—known to longtime Qingdao locals simply as “Factory No. 1”—has weathered more than 100 years of history. It has produced Germania beer, Asahi, and Kirin, and today it stands as a symbol of Chinese beer.

@超级小包子
Tsingtao beer tastes different depending on which brewery made it. Locals who drink beer often can supposedly tell with a single sip whether it came from Factory No. 1.
I highly recommend buying the ticket that includes a multi-variety tasting. You can sample six different styles for free, including unpasteurized draft, pure draft, dark beer, IPA, and more. This is about as authentic as Qingdao beer gets. After all, it would probably cost more to smuggle in fake beer than to just open the taps at the factory.

@超级小包子
I was done in by my third glass of white beer. How many could you handle?

14:00 Huangdao

For the rest of the day, it’s time to choose your own adventure. Families with kids can head to Polar Ocean World or the Underwater World. The former is better for entertainment, while the latter is more educational.

Or leave the rest of the itinerary to the West Coast. Rent a car and drive along Qingdao’s coastline to enjoy a scenic spin through the waterfront park at Tangdao Bay.

Or skip the crowds and spend a little time playing in the water at Golden Beach.
On your way back, make sure to take the Jiaozhou Bay Bridge to the airport. The sunset over Jiaozhou Bay with the bridge in view is so spectacular that no other adjective really fits.

@侯贺良

An Incomplete Guide to Eating and Staying in Qingdao

I lived in Qingdao for a while, but I still wouldn’t dare claim to be an expert on the city’s food scene. I can only recommend a few places based on my own experience.

Broadly speaking, Qingdao’s food falls into three categories: seafood, Shandong cuisine, and Korean food.

  • Let’s start with seafood. In the old town, Tuandao Farmers Market is roughly the place to go for buying seafood. On weekend mornings, I used to wander through it all the time. The market is big but orderly, with a full range of seafood and very attractive prices. If you don’t want to cook it yourself, let one of the nearby shops prepare it for you. And definitely try the famous ga la, one of Qingdao’s so-called three treasures.
  • Two chain restaurants that are safe choices are Yan Xiao Guan and Boluo Youzi. The former is a little pricier, but when you can’t decide what to eat, ordering grouper or boluo youzi there, plus a bowl of rice with razor clams, is rarely a bad move.
  • Personally, I don’t recommend the so-called steamed seafood restaurants.
  • As for Qingdao-style Shandong cuisine, a meal can roughly be broken down into one staple, one cold dish, and two main dishes. For the staple, go for mackerel dumplings. While Chuangeyu’s dumplings don’t feel quite as good as they used to, it’s still a convenient chain option, though Kaihai’s dumplings are a bit more expensive. For a cold dish, drunken crab claws are my favorite late-night snack. And among the hot dishes, braised sea cucumber with scallions and braised shrimp with napa cabbage are unforgettable. There’s also a small restaurant called Yiqinglou that does a very solid job.
  • Qingdao is one of the Chinese cities with the closest trade ties to South Korea, so the city also has some excellent Korean food. In the old town, look around the Gutian Road and Zhangzhou Road area. If you want authentic bibimbap or Korean barbecue, this is a good place to start.

Accommodation in Qingdao can also be divided into three main areas: Zhanqiao and Badaguan, Hong Kong Middle Road, and Huangdao.

  • Guesthouses around Zhanqiao and Badaguan have the advantage of putting you right inside the scenic area and close to classic attractions, saving time and effort, though quality can vary quite a bit.
  • From Hong Kong Middle Road eastward, you’ll find many international chain hotels. The facilities and overall experience are dependable—options include the scenic InterContinental Qingdao and the high-value Holiday Inn Qingdao City Center—but prices during holidays and in summer can be painfully high.
  • Along the West Coast in Huangdao, several newer chain hotels have also been built. Even during peak travel season, prices can still be reasonable, and the beaches are less crowded, though getting back and forth from the city is less convenient.

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  • Original author’s WeChat public account: Basically Harmless
  • Original author’s article series: Basically Harmless