This is a complete, practical guide to taking a liveaboard trip in Komodo, Indonesia, to see giant lizards—Komodo dragons. If you want a more detailed trip report, see In Komodo, I Returned to Jurassic Park.

Where Is Komodo?

Komodo National Park is located in Indonesia’s Nusa Tenggara archipelago. The Komodo monitor lizards that live on these islands are the largest lizards currently living on Earth.

These volcanic islands are home to about 5,700 giant lizards. Because of their appearance and aggressive nature, they are called “Komodo dragons.” They have not been found living anywhere else in the world. These lizards have attracted enormous interest from scientists studying evolution.

Curiosity really is human nature—we even pay money to see these rather ugly creatures. Komodo Island was closed for a year at the beginning of 2020, and it has now reopened to visitors from around the world.

How to Get to Komodo

There are no direct flights from China to Komodo, so you need to connect once in Bali or Jakarta. Because of that, many people combine Bali and Komodo in the same trip.

Using Bali as an example, there are about three or four daily flights on AirAsia and Batik Air (a subsidiary of Lion Air Indonesia). Round-trip fares generally range from RMB 400–500 to RMB 600–700, and the one-way flight takes only about an hour.

You can also take a local ferry from Bali to Komodo. While the fare is cheap—only RMB 200,000–300,000 rupiah (about RMB 50–60)—it takes at least two days and one night in a large shared sleeping area, so it is not a great value in terms of either time or energy.

In addition, there is a 4-day, 3-night liveaboard from Lombok to Komodo. It is a distinctive experience and works well for travelers with more time (see the next section).

How to Explore Komodo

A liveaboard is the most popular—and almost the only—way to visit Komodo. On the main street near the port, many travel agencies offer liveaboard bookings. In reality, there is not a huge difference between agencies, since most are middlemen. The key is simply finding a boat and price you are happy with.

Based on trip length, liveaboards can roughly be divided into the following seven categories:

1. One-day slow boat:

This only covers the three core sights: Padar Island, Komodo Island, and Pink Beach. Departure is a little after 5 a.m. on a basic small fishing boat. Prices are around IDR 600,000–700,000 (a little over RMB 300).

2. One-day speedboat:

This covers most of the highlights, including Padar Island, Komodo Island, Pink Beach, and snorkeling with manta rays. It also leaves a little after 5 a.m. The schedule is tight but packed with activities. The price is around IDR 1.3 million (more than RMB 600). This seems to be a heavily promoted local option, and you can book it right at Komodo Airport.

3. 2-day, 1-night liveaboard:

Day 1: Kelor Island hike - snorkeling - sunset bats at Kalong Island;

Day 2: Padar Island - Komodo Island - snorkeling with manta rays.

Compared with the rushed speedboat trip, the advantages here are Kalong Island and lots of time drifting around at sea, even if some of that is just downtime. Departure is at 10 a.m., and you return to Labuan Bajo the next evening. Prices start from IDR 1.6 million (over RMB 700, shared room/shared bed), though private rooms are also available.

The boats are traditional Indonesian phinisi sailing boats, with air conditioning and showers, and the overall conditions are quite good. Personally, I think the 2-day, 1-night liveaboard is the best option for visiting Komodo.

4. 3-day, 2-night liveaboard:

The itinerary is similar to the 2-day version, with a few extra islands and snorkeling stops added in. Prices start at a little over IDR 2 million (more than RMB 900).

5. Liveaboards of 4 days or longer:

For these trips, the focus is not just dragon-spotting but diving. The currents around Komodo are strong, and there is a lot to see underwater, so there are more specialized dive liveaboards as well. Prices start around RMB 3,000–4,000.

6. Lombok to Komodo 4-day, 3-night liveaboard:

If your broader itinerary already includes Lombok, you can consider taking a liveaboard directly to Komodo. It includes the Komodo highlights while also saving you the cost of one flight and several nights of accommodation. It only costs RMB 200–300 more than a regular Komodo liveaboard, so it is very worthwhile. The rough itinerary is as follows:

Day 1: Depart from Lombok pier - Kenewa Island (snorkeling, sightseeing, sunset);

Day 2: Bola Island - Moyo Island (dolphins, snorkeling, waterfall) - Komodo

Day 3: Komodo Island - Pink Beach - K Day 4: Padar Island - Rinca Island - arrive at Labuan Bajo pier

Day 4: Padar Island - Rinca Island - arrive at Labuan Bajo pier

7. Private charter:

If you are traveling with friends and do not mind the extra planning, you can also consider chartering a boat. For a company outing of more than 10 people, you can directly charter a dedicated phinisi boat. If you only have three or four people, you can also try hiring a local fisherman’s boat. The advantage is flexibility—you can plan your own route. The downside is that conditions almost certainly will not be great, and you may have to sleep on deck.

How to Book a Liveaboard

Many pre-pandemic products on Chinese platforms such as Ctrip and Fliggy are still not back online, so many people are booking through Xiaohongshu, Douyin, and similar channels. But because of information asymmetry, the markups are often very high. Some sellers are simply helping you register for a boat with no real guarantees.

The cheapest method is definitely to wait until you arrive in Labuan Bajo and then look for a liveaboard there, using the prices in the section above as a reference. You can also arrange one through a travel agency while still in Bali. Whether in peak or off-peak season, supply should be fairly ample. If you are not comfortable with that, you can search foreign social media directly for local liveaboards that seem reliable, or look for recommendations from other travelers on Chinese-language platforms.

Komodo Attractions

1. Komodo Island

This is the main attraction, home to the world’s largest known giant lizard, the Komodo dragon. There is a separate national park entrance fee of IDR 450,000.

Hiking on Komodo Island follows fixed routes led by rangers. The short trail takes about half an hour, the medium trail about an hour, and the long trail about an hour and a half. Whether you actually see a dragon really depends on luck.

2. Rinca Island: Komodo dragons also live here. It is another of the larger islands within the national park, with more open tropical savanna scenery.

3. Padar Island: A very Instagram-famous island. From the summit, you can see three beaches in different colors, and the view is stunning. The hike takes about half an hour, all on built stairways.

4. Kalong Island: This is where massive numbers of bats emerge at dusk. Hundreds of thousands of fruit bats live here, and every day after sunset they leave the forest to forage. It is spectacular, and it is the place I remember most vividly.

5. Pink Beach: There is more than one Pink Beach. The pink color comes from white sand mixed with fragments of red coral. If you can plan your own itinerary, it is even better to avoid the most crowded one.

6. Manta snorkeling: Komodo has a snorkeling spot with a very high chance of seeing manta rays. Usually you can see 2–3, and if you are lucky you may even witness a “manta storm.” The day before we went, the liveaboard owner said they had seen dozens.

7. Other small islands:

Kanawa Island: a small snorkeling island.

Kelor Island: hike up a small hill for decent views all around. It is usually the first stop of the trip, more of an appetizer than a main event.

Food and Lodging in Komodo

Komodo is not especially cheap, which makes sense given that it is a popular tourist destination. Still, overall travel costs are absolutely within a reasonable range, and the scenery and experience are worth the money.

For lodging, Labuan Bajo has everything from hostels for a few dozen RMB, to decent hotels in the RMB 200–300 range, to upscale resorts costing several thousand. There are far more options than there were a few years ago.

For solo travelers, I highly recommend Seasta Hostel. It is one of the best-equipped hostels around.

There are all kinds of food options, though I really did not notice any Chinese food. A decent restaurant will probably cost RMB 50–60 per person and up. The night market is in a similar range, while street stalls can fill you up for just a little over RMB 10.

Your liveaboard includes three meals a day, so you really only need to bring some drinks and beer onboard.

Komodo Weather

Komodo is near the equator, similar to Singapore and Bali. Mornings and evenings are actually fine, but it gets quite hot when the sun is out during the day.

The dry season runs from April to October each year, and the rainy season runs from November to March. The best time to visit is April, May, or June, just after the rainy season ends and the northern winds shift direction. The odds of good weather are high, and the vegetation is lush and green.

During the rainy season, the liveaboard experience can be a bit worse. Sometimes you miss the best sunsets, which can be disappointing. In summer, by contrast, many places have already turned dry and yellow.

Visa

Indonesia’s pre-pandemic visa-free policy for Chinese travelers has not yet resumed. At present, travelers to Indonesia need a visa on arrival. The visa on arrival is valid for 30 days and can be extended once.

Visa on arrival requirements:

1. A passport valid for at least six months (including six months);

2. A round-trip ticket or onward ticket to another country;

3. A visa fee of IDR 500,000 (or US$35), paid in cash;

4. Travel insurance (including COVID coverage).

Getting a visa on arrival in Bali is very convenient. After getting off the plane, just follow the crowd: line up at the first counter to pay, then line up at the second counter for the visa itself. The process flow is clear, though if there are a lot of people, the wait can still be quite long.

Useful Items

Currency: The exchange rate is roughly IDR 10,000 to RMB 4.5. It is not a nice round number, so the math can be annoying. Aside from the amount you need for the visa on arrival, it is recommended to withdraw cash locally with a UnionPay debit card.

If you exchange money in Bali, make sure to choose a place that looks legitimate. Do not use the tempting private street-side exchangers. This is a well-known scam in Bali, and they all seem to have graduated from the same scam school.

Plug adapter: Indonesia uses the European-style two-round-pin plug.

Sunscreen: Essential. Whether you are hiking or snorkeling, it is very easy to get sunburned.

Other Costs

Komodo National Park entrance fee: IDR 450,000

Drone fee: If you use a drone, you need to pay an additional aerial photography fee of RMB 500, which is outrageously expensive.