“Uji is the birthplace of the Japanese classic The Tale of Genji. With its beautiful river, lush greenery in spring and summer, fiery red maples in autumn, and authentic Uji matcha, this small city is absolutely full of charm.”

On this day, we went to Uji and had a very distinctive sukiyaki meal in Nara.

JW Marriott Nara Breakfast

This hotel was quite generous. We stayed for two nights on separate reservations: one booked by my travel companion with Silver status, and one booked by me with Platinum status. The front desk merged the reservations under my name, so we got complimentary breakfast on both days. Platinum breakfast was served in the lounge on the second floor. On the way from the guest rooms to the lounge, there were various meeting rooms with a very modern design. There was even a room displaying a bride’s wedding dress.

You could also take the stairs from the first floor up to the second floor.

Breakfast started at 6:30. I woke up at 4:30 that morning. After showering and getting ready, it still wasn’t 6:00 yet. Then my child woke up and said they wanted breakfast. After all, they hadn’t eaten a single bite at dinner the night before and had only nibbled on the yokan the hotel gave us after we got back.

The two of us went to the lounge at 6:00, and sure enough, it wasn’t open yet. We went back to the room to wait a bit longer, then returned right at 6:30 to eat.

The breakfast area in the lounge wasn’t large, but the selection was quite extensive. It wasn’t as all-encompassing as the breakfasts in Hokkaido, but by most other standards it was very good. Drinks and alcohol were available self-serve from one large refrigerator. Freshly made egg dishes were ordered à la carte, but there didn’t seem to be any limit on how many each person could order. The omelette was the Japanese omurice-style kind. The scrambled eggs and fried eggs were both delicious, with the soft-set texture I like.

My child’s favorite was still these mini donuts. Opening the little cabinet door and taking the donuts out with tongs felt pretty novel.

The restaurant on the first floor also served breakfast, which I assume was paid. Outside the restaurant was also a cute food truck selling souvenirs.

Nara → Uji

After eating our fill, we headed to Uji. From the hotel, we took a taxi to Nara JR Station, then rode the D Rapid Line for just 27 minutes to reach Uji. If you’re coming from Kyoto, it’s even faster at only 18 minutes.

The cherry blossoms reached full bloom on April 7, and we came the day before peak bloom. We were really lucky this year.

Walking from Uji Station to the Uji River, we came across an unmanned snack shop. It felt pretty novel, so we went in for a quick look around. Unfortunately, they only sold boxed sets, and we didn’t want to buy that much.

We got to Uji before 9:00, so nothing was open yet.

Even the vending machines had Uji-exclusive Uji tea.

Byodoin Omotesando

If you come to Uji, you definitely won’t want to miss the entrance to Byodoin Omotesando. At this hour, it was completely empty, but when we came back in the afternoon, it felt like stepping into another world—it was absolutely packed.

This road leads to Byodoin, one of Uji’s must-visit sights.

Uji River

My first impression of the Uji River: isn’t this so much prettier than the Kamo River?! Though that may also be because the stretch of the Kamo River near the Kyoto Ritz where we stayed last year was rather underwhelming.

My child and I dashed down the stairs like people finally seeing rain after a long drought, eager to take in the Uji River in the early morning. Unfortunately, the backlighting made it impossible to capture in photos.

Even the restroom was this beautiful.

After a brief stop, we continued along the omotesando toward Byodoin. None of the shops along the way were open yet.

The Byodoin branch of Itoh Kyuemon—this brand’s products are everywhere in Japan.

A branch of pale pink cherry blossoms stretched over the wall. The elderly woman standing under the tree even smiled and greeted my child.

Not much farther, and we arrived at Byodoin.

Byodoin

Located in Uji, Kyoto Prefecture, Byodoin is one of Japan’s best-known Pure Land gardens and is listed as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site. Its most iconic structure is the Phoenix Hall, and the gardens, paintings, architecture, and sculptures are all worth seeing. The reverse sides of the currently circulating 10-yen coin and 10,000-yen banknote both feature an image of the Phoenix Hall. The temple grounds also include a museum, Hoshokan, which displays treasured artifacts, including the “Bodhisattvas on Clouds” and the original golden phoenix from the roof, both designated National Treasures. During the Heian period, aristocrats used the gardens at Byodoin to recreate the Pure Land of Ultimate Bliss where Amida Buddha resides, while incorporating the scenery of the Uji River and surrounding mountains for an especially graceful effect.

We arrived at Byodoin about 10 minutes after opening, and as soon as we entered, we noticed everyone running. I guessed it had something to do with reservations for the Phoenix Hall, so we hurried along too.

Once we got in line, we realized the ticket window had not even opened yet. Ticket sales started at 9:30, and many Japanese visitors had already come in at 9:00 to line up. While we were waiting, an older staff member told us that based on our place in line, we would get the 10:50 entry slot. We waited and waited until 9:30 finally arrived, bought our tickets, and started exploring, planning to come back and gather again before our time slot.

The wisteria had not bloomed yet.

The visit route first takes you around the Phoenix Hall.

Spring was everywhere.

A light breeze passed through, and the cherry blossoms danced with it. It was beautiful.

Hoshokan is the museum located on the south side of Phoenix Hall within the Byodoin grounds. It opened in 2001, and the architect was Akira Kuryu of Japan, who also designed the central area of the 2005 Aichi Expo. Photography is not allowed inside the exhibition halls. Key displays include the original copper phoenix from the rooftop ridge (without gilding) and 26 Bodhisattvas on Clouds that once stood behind the Amida Buddha statue. There is also a tea house inside the museum where you can try authentic Uji matcha.

Outside Hoshokan there is a gift shop, the only souvenir shop inside Byodoin.

After finishing one full loop, it was just about time for our scheduled visit to the Phoenix Hall.

Byodoin originally began as the villa of the regent Fujiwara no Michinaga. After his death, his son Fujiwara no Yorimichi converted the villa into a temple, and the following year (1053), he built the Phoenix Hall to house an image of Amida Buddha. When people refer to the World Heritage site, they are specifically referring to this Phoenix Hall. The gilded wooden statue of Amida Buddha enshrined there was carved by Jocho, the most famous Buddhist sculptor of Japan’s Heian period, at the commission of Fujiwara no Yorimichi. The statue is 2.84 meters tall, and on the wooden panels behind it are 52 smaller Bodhisattvas on Clouds in a rich variety of poses: playing instruments such as the zither, biwa, transverse flute, vertical flute, sho, and drums, as well as praying with hands together, holding banners and lotus flowers, or dancing.

The inside of the Phoenix Hall is not large, and you need to remove your shoes before entering. The main focus is several large Buddhist statues and the history of the Phoenix Hall itself. The visit mostly consists of everyone standing in front of the statues listening to the explanation. For us, with limited Japanese and a child in tow, every minute felt a little difficult. If I had to choose again, I would probably skip this part. The rest of the site was already very worthwhile.

Nakamura Tokichi (Byodoin Store)

The street in front of Byodoin is lined with matcha shops. When we came out of Byodoin, there was a long line at Nakamura Tokichi, so we joined it anyway. By the time we finished eating and came back out, there was no line at all. The shop is located by the Uji River and uses a system where you line up to order and then find your own seat. Sitting by the window was especially relaxing.

The line was mainly for crowd control inside the shop, so it did not actually feel very crowded once inside. There was no need to queue again to order, but after placing the order, the wait for the food was a bit long.

We ordered the classic parfait and two limited-edition items. The classic one was the best, with lots of texture and layers. The limited-edition sakura drink tasted a bit like Sprite. They also gave us a complimentary cup of matcha.

As someone who is not really a dessert person, these were a little too sweet for me, but I have to admit this parfait was genuinely excellent. It was much better than the ones at nanas, Maiko, and similar shops.

After eating, we sat by the window and watched the Uji River flow by slowly. It was incredibly relaxing.

This Byodo-in limited parfait really was packed with ingredients, which explains the great layering and texture.

We wanted to leave through the back door after finishing, but it was locked. Right across from the restaurant is a souvenir shop, and there was no line. It was easy to pick up a few things to take home after eating—just be sure to check the expiration dates.

The entrance is separated by a curtain, making it feel pleasantly quiet despite being in a busy area.

There was a traffic safety awareness event across the street. Japan is just too adorable—even something this serious had mascots on site.

The streets of Uji were full of matcha ramen and matcha dumplings.

It was a Sunday, and there seemed to be a local festival going on in Uji. There were all kinds of stalls on the island in the Uji River, locals picnicking under the cherry blossoms, and dragon boat teams out on the water.

The island in the river was so lively—crowds everywhere. It really felt like a glimpse into how Japanese people spend their weekends.

                                                         Uji Shrine

Uji Shrine enshrines a deity associated with learning: the Wheel of Wisdom.

On my third trip to Japan, I finally learned the proper way to pray at a shrine.

Ujigami Shrine

Built in the late Heian period, Ujigami Shrine has been designated a World Cultural Heritage site. Its National Treasure main hall is shrine architecture from nearly the same period as the Phoenix Hall of Byodo-in, dating to around the mid-11th century. Until the Meiji era, it was collectively known with the nearby Uji Shrine as the “Rikyu Kamisha.” The three inner sanctuaries are built in the nagare-zukuri style with hinoki bark roofs and enshrine three deities. Emperor Ojin is enshrined in the center, his son Uji no Wakiiratsuko on the left, and his brother Emperor Nintoku on the right.

The Tale of Genji Museum

The Tale of Genji is often called “Japan’s Dream of the Red Chamber,” and Uji is where the story takes place. The museum’s audio guide was an iPad, but it was not very good. At first we did not really know how to use it, and later when we wanted to sit down and listen to an overview of The Tale of Genji, it kept cutting out and closing. Luckily, we still managed to get the general idea. I’d recommend reading the book in advance, or at least reviewing a plot summary before visiting.

The museum had a play area, and our kid was still bursting with energy and played there for quite a while. We happened to get seats on a bench next to the play area, so we sat there and admired the cherry blossoms too.

The plants in the Japanese garden were all trimmed in such interesting ways.

We then walked back to the Uji River. Our kid said he wanted ramen, so we picked a highly rated shop, but when we got there, the line was already packed, so we gave up.

In the end, we settled into this restaurant at a busy intersection on Omotesando. To be honest, the food was actually pretty good, but both my travel partner and I felt a little unwell afterward. I’m not sure whether it was jet lag or the food. Our table was by the window, and when I looked at the screen, I realized just how many bugs there are in Uji this time of year! I hadn’t noticed it at all while we were walking around outside.

Our kid finally got the matcha ramen he had been craving.

That whole day, starting from when we arrived at The Tale of Genji Museum, I felt especially exhausted, like I could barely walk another step. Maybe it was the jet lag. My travel partner’s eyes were a little inflamed too, so we stopped at a drugstore near the busy Byodoin Omotesando intersection and bought some eye drops for him. He had originally suggested going back to Nara to do a little more sightseeing, but since I wasn’t feeling great, we decided to head back to the hotel and rest.

The main stores of Nakamura Tokichi and Itoh Kyuemon were both on the way back to the JR station. Neither one seemed to have a line.

The cherry blossoms at the JR station were quite beautiful too.

We took the JR back to Nara the same way we came, and the timing worked out perfectly to catch a bus back to the hotel. Traffic was really bad at that hour. There already aren’t many taxis in Nara, and with the crowds during cherry blossom season, it was very easy for all the taxis to get snapped up.

Highly Rated Sukiyaki Spot: “Kitsune”

Resting helped a lot, and then we took the bus again to dinner. Tonight’s reservation was at “㐂つね,” a sukiyaki restaurant in Nara rated 3.77 on tabelog. The restaurant’s name means “fox.”

The area was absolutely packed around dinnertime. As we passed Nakatanidou, the line was incredibly long, and lots of people were standing by the roadside eating mochi.

We also came across an incredibly cute macaron shop. My kid insisted that I take photos, and I promised that if he ate his dinner nicely, we could come back and buy macarons afterward. Just the usual battle of wits between a picky eater and his parents.

We also passed a Seattle’s Best Coffee.

The restaurant was tucked away in a small alley, with a very modern interior. We were shown to a semi-private booth. This was the menu for the evening.

The appetizers were all light, fresh, and delicious, with a strong sense of spring.

After that, a staff member came over to prepare the sukiyaki for us. His English was better than everyone else’s, but he kept sniffling throughout the meal, so I’m not sure whether he had allergies. He asked whether this was our first time in Nara, and when we said it was our second, he seemed surprised.

He also proactively offered to take a family photo for us, which was much appreciated. The sukiyaki was served in three rounds. The first round used the standard sukiyaki sauce, and dipping it in raw egg was as wonderful as ever. The second round was seared with shichimi and then dipped in raw egg. The third round was dipped in onsen egg. My travel partner and I both agreed that the classic version was the best. We weren’t really used to the shichimi at this restaurant. By the third round, the bottom of the pot had gotten a little scorched from the shichimi. Even though I really like onsen egg, the texture pairing with the sukiyaki beef felt a little odd.

The second and third rounds were honestly a little rich, so it was nice that a small serving of vegetarian somen arrived at that point to lighten things up.

Dessert was house-made ice cream. I’m generally not a big fan of waffle cone texture in the first place, so even though this one was cute, I still didn’t think it was as good as ice cream without the cone.

Since we wanted to walk off dinner a bit—and because I had promised my kid we’d go buy macarons—we walked all the way back to the bus stop. By then, there were barely any buses left, but lots of taxis were waiting at the bus terminal, so it was easy to catch one back to the hotel.

The macarons were unbelievably cute! My kid picked these two himself.

This hotel also had a children’s treasure hunt activity, which reminded me of Kyoto. But my kid said he wasn’t that interested, so we skipped it.

The next morning, we got up a little later. The lounge wasn’t crowded either, and we were seated in the same spot as the day before.

After breakfast, we checked out and asked the front desk to call a taxi to Kintetsu, kicking off our five-day trip to Kyoto.

Overall, we were quite satisfied with our stay at JW Marriott Nara this time. The hotel is very new, and although we didn’t get an upgrade and were given a standard room, it was still very comfortable. Service was generally quite good, and we were happy with the breakfast as well. The value was also excellent—these days, there aren’t many good hotels where you can redeem a 35,000-point FN. We also used the hotel’s laundry service during our stay; there was no need to fill out the form ourselves, and we could just hand everything to housekeeping, though the price was a bit high. The front desk staff were somewhat inconsistent, and a few of the older gentlemen were clearly not very attentive. Another downside is that the hotel is a bit far from the main sights, though fortunately the bus stop right outside the entrance is fairly convenient. If we visit Nara for a third time, we’d consider staying here again.