Machu Picchu

Another term from my middle-school geography textbook, finally unlocked. In the faint light of dawn, looking out over the full panorama of Machu Picchu—the "Lost City of the Incas"—all I could feel was awe.

Six hundred years ago, the Incas—who hadn't even fully developed writing yet—built such a massive "resort" deep in the mountains. They must have been incredibly passionate about travel; it felt like I had found kindred spirits. (One official theory is that this may have been a countryside retreat for Inca nobility.)

Maybe what moved me most was finally standing here after such a long journey, as if I had earned this view through my own effort.

I set out from Aguas Calientes at 4:30 a.m. and hiked up along the mountain trail. 1,600 steps and 400 meters of elevation gain nearly broke me, and the whole way up I kept wondering why I hadn't just taken the bus. Of all the expenses for the entire Machu Picchu trip, this was probably the least justifiable place to save $12.

Maybe that's also why, when I finally stood in front of Machu Picchu, I felt a little more appreciation than everyone else—as if I had just survived a tribulation to get there. With towering Huayna Picchu rising behind it, the whole city felt majestic and mysterious.

I chose Route 2 and wandered slowly through the ancient Inca city. The legendary Inca stonework really does live up to the hype: structures built entirely from stacked stone fit together with astonishing precision, like the work of master Lego builders from 600 years ago.

The day before, instead of taking the train into the mountains, I chose the cheaper "budget backpacker route": a 7-hour bus ride from Cusco to a place called Hidroelectrica, then a 10-kilometer walk along relatively flat railroad tracks to Aguas Calientes at the base of the mountain. There were quite a few people doing the same route. It's well known among foreign travelers, because backpackers like saving money and don't mind walking.

Aguas Calientes is a lovely little town built into the mountainside, full of inns and restaurants. It reminded me of Yubeng, but even more of Namche Bazaar, the "hub town" on the EBC route—another place where travelers from all over the world gather like pilgrims. The locals seemed to be in quite a good mood, which makes sense given that busloads of well-paying tourists arrive every day.

I lingered for 5 hours and couldn't bear to leave. On the way down I was surprisingly full of energy, and I even walked all the way back to Hidroelectrica by the same route. As a result, my Machu Picchu trip cost only 800 yuan, far below budget. Before going, I thought Machu Picchu might be just okay—but after two days and one night there, I'd happily recommend it to everyone. Machu Picchu is absolutely worth it!

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