Hiking Near Cusco

I had one extra day in Cusco and wanted to do a hike nearby. But as I learned more about Peru, my original plans were gradually ruled out: Rainbow Mountain felt too much like an Instagram hotspot with weather-dependent filters, and on the Seven Lakes route, the driving time is even longer than the hike itself.

Then I came across three foreign bloggers writing about a route called Huchuy Qosqo. They used the words “off the beaten,” “epic,” and “damn incredible” to describe it.

So what was I waiting for? I headed out.

By the time I finished, I was absolutely thrilled, and honestly, even those three words felt like an understatement. The best stretch felt like walking through an Inca golden city that Pizarro never discovered.

Golden hills everywhere, dreamlike plants, chance encounters with Andean condors, a family of wild horses, and llamas, plus Indiana Jones–style ruins at the end. Animal remains along the trail added to the sense of wildness. There are no toilets on the entire route.

High altitude + spectacular scenery + very few people + no backtracking: it checks every box for a perfect hike.

The full route is about 20 km long and takes around 7 hours. It can roughly be divided into three sections.

Section 1: a gradual climb starting at 3,700 meters. The barren landscape and strangely colored rock formations feel like an expedition in the Scottish Highlands (which I have never actually visited). The final 200 meters of ascent are a real cardio push, ending at two large rocks that look like scarecrows.

Section 2: first comes a flat stretch at 4,200 meters, circling an alpine lake that looks like a gemstone set into the mountains. Then comes the most spectacular part, about two hours long. Do not blink. The gold-colored landscape just keeps going, and in the distance you can see Inca villages winding through the Sacred Valley. Even I couldn’t resist putting on a Poncho and taking selfies—you can imagine how good it was. Then, almost suddenly, the ruins appear in front of you.

Section 3: a 4 km descent that looks visually intense, almost like a straight vertical drop, but in reality it’s safe and easy enough as long as you have trekking poles and hiking shoes.

In the local language, HQ means “Little Cusco.” It is also an Inca site with terraces and stone houses.

Very few people hike this route, which is hard to imagine in Cusco, arguably the hottest travel hub in South America. I was alone for the entire hike that day, plus the 3 people who had camped there the night before. That means only 4 hikers over 2 days. Even in peak season, I’ve heard it’s still no more than 20 people.

Getting there and back is simple. In the morning, take a minibus from Cusco’s shared minibus station toward Ollantaytambo, and tell the driver you want to get off at Chinchero: 45 minutes, 12 yuan. Then take a taxi and tell the driver you’re going to this hike: 15 minutes, 30 yuan. After descending, the town at the end is called Lamay. From the main road there, you can catch a minibus back to Cusco: 40 minutes, 12 yuan.

In other words, the whole day hike costs only 50 yuan, which is pretty great value.

To sum it up: this is a low-difficulty hike with amazing scenery and very low cost. As long as you can handle the altitude, you should be fine.

Finally, seven essentials before heading out on a hike: hiking boots, trekking poles, enough water, rain gear and warm layers, sun protection, an emergency contact person (at the very least, tell your hotel front desk that you’re going here), and always be cautious.

About the Author

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