This trip was planned and booked only six days before departure, including both flights and hotel bookings. The preparation time was rushed, but overall the result was still pretty good. During the trip we still had a few minor hiccups, so it turned into an experience full of surprises and happy surprises.

If you're planning to go to Colombia, you can read my earlier guide, Colombia travel essentials, which includes practical tips and useful info. This post is more like a detailed travel log, recording our trip step by step. I hope our itinerary can offer you some inspiration for your own planning.

Departure

Flights & Tickets

Our flight was a direct round-trip between ORD and BOG with Avianca (Colombia’s flag carrier), redeemed with MR points. It cost a little over 50,000 points per person, round-trip, plus $130 in taxes. Although it calls itself the national carrier, it’s basically a low-cost style operation: the rear seats are not reclinable, and the six-hour flight does not include meals, so keep that in mind. If you can handle a connection and have enough time, you can choose flights via Panama or Florida, which also lets you add one more stop and may come with a cheaper cash fare.

ORD-BOG

Our booking was actually problematic from the start. The original routing was ORD-BOG-MDE, but the transfer window from international to domestic was very tight. If the incoming flight had been on time, we would have had about two and a half hours. Because domestic flights were very expensive to book with points, we booked the international segment with points and paid cash for the domestic segment. The result: even though the tickets were on the same airline, booking separately meant no through-checked baggage—very frustrating (I had previously booked Korean Air LAX-ICN-TAO in separate segments this May, and bag transfer worked perfectly there). In theory, same-alliance domestic segments usually allow baggage transfer, but this airline just didn’t.

This flight had no on-time arrival delays over 10 minutes for the past week, so we thought it would be fine. But if anything can happen, it will happen. Our flight was delayed more than an hour before takeoff, and it landed over 30 minutes late. We had no choice but to sprint to immigration as soon as we landed.

Immigration Entry

At immigration, you need a passport and a valid U.S. visa or Schengen visa; we used an F1 visa this time. It helps to have your return ticket confirmation and hotel reservation ready to show the immigration officer, who needs to enter the travel details into their system. If you’re staying with friends and don’t have a hotel booking, make sure you have your address prepared.

My First Missed Flight

This was my first missed flight, something I’ve never experienced before. Because this wasn’t a fully connected itinerary, in theory the onward segment is not liable for delays on the first segment. To avoid affecting the rest of our trip, I started searching right away for a later flight on the same day, but I found that the flight we missed was the last one that day. So we thought we’d see if we could still catch it after collecting our baggage. As expected, when we picked up our bags and came upstairs to check luggage, staff told us that checked baggage could no longer be processed. Since we had anticipated this, we didn’t panic. We started thinking through backup plans and adjusted our schedule, deciding to stay overnight in Bogota and fly to Medellin the next day.

I tried my luck and went to Avianca staff to ask whether rebooking was possible. I was willing to pay a change fee if needed—it’s still better than losing both segments. When I found an agent, I was taken aback because they did not speak English. Luckily, I used Google Translate; it had been years since I last used its live voice translation, so I had to quickly figure out how to operate it again. After reviewing our booking, the staff said we didn’t need to pay any change fee and rebooked us to the next day’s 10:00 a.m. flight to Medellin. That relieved half the pressure at once.

Hotel

Check-in

For convenience, I opened my laptop at the airport and used UR points to book that night’s hotel at Hyatt—the same property we had planned to stay at on our way back from Medellin. The idea was to leave our checked luggage at the hotel and avoid carrying it to Medellin.

For reference, we booked Hyatt Place Bogota / Convention Center, Cat 1, next to the U.S. Embassy. The points rate was 3,500 points per night in the off-season (the airport booking for that night was slightly higher), and the cash rate was about $100 per night.

The front desk English was good, but there were no free disposable amenities at all (and this wasn’t only this hotel; it was the same in Medellin). Toothbrushes, toothpaste, and shower caps were all chargeable. Disposable slippers were not available in either hotel, even if you wanted to pay—so bring your own. Shampoo and body wash were provided in large bottles.

By then it was already past 11 p.m. We were all tired, and since we had just arrived in Bogota and didn’t know the area well, we didn’t feel comfortable going out for food. We quickly freshened up and went to bed.

Breakfast

Compared with similar-tier hotels in the U.S., this hotel’s breakfast was very generous. Just the fruit alone would probably run about $7-8 if bought separately in the U.S. The papaya and pineapple were very sweet; the cantaloupe was sweet too, though slightly less so. There were also local items like corn cakes and plantain pancakes, plus chicken breast and scrambled eggs—and, of course, coffee.

Airport Half-Day Tour

The next morning, after storing our luggage at the hotel, we headed to the airport. What awaited us was an oversold flight. At the gate, just as boarding was called and we joined the queue, we were told there were no seats left, so we had to find airport staff and rebook again. Staff said all morning flights were full, and the only available option was a 2:00 p.m. flight (which, frankly, was a relief by itself since they didn’t charge us anything for the change). Since it was already around 11 a.m., we decided to sort out lunch at the airport.

It’s no surprise this is a major coffee-growing country—the airport has coffee shops everywhere, and most of them even sell beans.

I picked up a V60 hand-pour coffee at a random counter. It wasn’t cheap; prices were almost what you’d pay in the U.S.

Coffee isn’t a full meal, so we moved on to other airport food. There are actually plenty of options here, including bochi rice, hot dogs, and crêpes. Prices were very low, basically in the single-digit USD range, with so many choices that we ended up trying almost everything.

Arrival in Medellin

Airport

After more than ten hours of rushing around, we finally made it onto the 30-minute flight and reached Medellin. One thing to note: Medellin’s city center sits in a basin at a lower elevation, around 1,500 meters, but the airport is up on a mountain ridge, at roughly 2,600 meters—almost the same as Bogota city.

Medellín’s airport is actually not small, especially compared with airports of similar scale in other countries, but the landing runway, taxiways, and apron look relatively small. The airport shuttle buses feel a bit old, and the ride is not exactly gentle, so hold on to steady yourself. Since Colombia is a Catholic country, the Christmas atmosphere is much stronger here than in the U.S.; coming out from baggage claim at arrivals, you can spot Christmas trees and little Christmas gnome decorations, and even Xiaomi ads.

First Proper Meal

We never expected it, but it was almost 24 hours after arriving in Colombia before we finally had a proper meal. Since we arrived at the hotel at a reasonable hour, we decided to walk to a restaurant, which took about a 15-minute trek. That choice also gave us a chance to feel a bit of the city’s night atmosphere and get familiar with the surroundings. Since we had originally planned to stay for two days but lost almost an entire day due to the delay, we wanted to grab every moment we could explore.

That night we chose Restaurante Gabo.mde Poblado, a restaurant with a strong artistic vibe. From the menu design to the entire room layout, every detail had a distinctly thoughtful, artistic touch. The restaurant’s name, “Gabo,” is a tribute to Colombian literary giant Gabriel García Márquez.

As a leading figure of magical realism, Márquez brought Colombian and Latin American culture, history, and everyday life to the world through classics like One Hundred Years of Solitude and Love in the Time of Cholera. The restaurant’s artwork also seems to communicate a sort of “magical realism” mood—for example, the menu cover with an illustration combining butterfly wings and a woman’s silhouette feels like a visual and imaginative journey. This design language gives the space a refined literary atmosphere while also conveying the rich Latin American cultural flavor found in Márquez’s stories.

The environment was comfortable and distinctive: soft lighting, vintage wooden tables and chairs, and bright decor items all added warmth to the dining experience. The bar area displayed colorful tropical fruits and beverages, reflecting Colombia’s energy and passion. Smooth background music rounded out a calm, storybook-like atmosphere.

The service was pleasantly friendly and thoughtful. Staff spoke English and provided an English menu, so even with no local language skills, communication was never a problem. With the staff’s patient recommendations, we ended up choosing three dishes:

Pork Ribs with Guava BBQ: Pork ribs cooked with guava BBQ sauce, paired with grilled corn and rustic chunky fries. It had a rich fruit aroma and clearly layered texture. Tender, smooth, and not greasy, with the guava flavor soaked deep into the ribs;

Creamy Rice with Chicken and Chorizo: Creamy rice with a rich dairy note, served with smoked chorizo and silky chicken. It melted in the mouth and gave a truly homey, comforting feeling;

Another dish featuring something like pork cracklings and small potatoes (I forgot the name, but it left a very strong impression): the small potatoes were crisp outside and soft inside, perfectly balanced with flavorful pork cracklings. These cracklings weren’t the dry, mostly fat, ultra-crispy style one sometimes gets back home; this one had quite a bit of meat, and with avocado sauce it was very distinctive.

You can pay with AMEX, and it came to about $20 per person. Compared with U.S. pricing, that’s incredibly affordable—even with desserts and drinks included.

Day 1 in Medellín

Passion Fruit and Coffee at the Hotel

In the morning, a few unfamiliar yellow fruits sat on the table. They looked a bit odd, so I took one to try. The skin felt hard and papery. Once I carefully peeled it, I discovered that its interior looked very similar to a passion fruit! After checking, I learned it was a Colombia-native variety of passion fruit. A quick search suggested it’s also grown in Yunnan, but at 40–50 yuan each, it’s a pretty luxurious fruit. Fortunately, breakfast at the hotel was free, so we each ate three without hesitation.

In taste, it was similar to regular passion fruit, but the juice was richer and the sweetness and aroma were stronger. Each bite felt like the passion and sunshine of tropical fruit. It made this Medellín morning feel especially fresh and unexpected.

After breakfast, we went downstairs from the hotel and walked into a coffee shop we had passed during our evening stroll the day before. The mermaid design by the entrance reminded us of Starbucks, but with a distinct Latin American feel. Because of the language barrier, we couldn’t communicate at all at first. Just as we were getting a bit lost, an American guy happened to appear behind us. He seemed to notice our situation and kindly asked in fluent English if we needed help.

With his help, we successfully ordered a V60 hand-poured coffee. The bean profile was immediately impressive: bright cantaloupe-like aromas, a lighter roast, clean bright acidity, and almost no bitterness. Overall, it had an especially pleasant fruit-forward character, as if our taste buds were telling us that Medellín should start this way: bright and clear.

Nutibara Sculpture Park

Our itinerary was put together in a rush just one week before departure, and with the flight delay, time became pretty tight. By the time we arrived at Nutibara Mountain (Cerro Nutibara), we had actually mixed this up with the next destination we were supposed to go to. Still, that “mix-up” brought an unexpected bonus, helping us connect more deeply with Latin American culture.

Nutibara Mountain’s sculpture park is a space blending art, culture, and natural scenery. Around the park you can find replicas of traditional Colombian architecture and many colorful small shops selling local crafts and souvenirs. There are also statues of notable figures, including a half-figure of Colombian writer Tomás Carrasquilla, whose work significantly influenced the country’s literature and cultural development. The sculptures and building styles all carry a strong Latin American cultural flavor, as if telling the story of this land.

That said, we visited during daytime, when the view is open but the city’s panorama felt a little disorganized and lacked dramatic impact. If you have extra time, this spot is better visited at dusk or at night; once darkness falls, Medellín’s lights outline a very different and beautiful silhouette. Compared with that, if you want a deeper cultural experience, the Comuna 13 slum mural tour in 13 District delivers a much stronger visual and emotional impact.

Visiting Comuna 13

Our original plan was to first take the cable car and overlook Medellín’s skyline, then head to the famous Comuna 13 (13 District). Instead, our Uber driver dropped us right at the entrance to 13, skipping the cable-car segment. While this disrupted the plan a bit, it also saved us time and let us focus more on experiencing this area’s unique culture and history.

Comuna 13 used to be one of the most internationally notorious hotspots for violence and was once a core area for drug trafficking during Pablo Escobar’s era. Back then, it functioned as a “backyard” for trafficking groups, with its rugged terrain and poor neighborhoods making it a natural shelter for criminal networks. Our guide gave us a detailed history lesson, including how dramatically the area changed after Escobar was killed. Residents used art and community redevelopment to gradually move beyond the old shadows, transforming the area into a place full of hope and energy.

One surprising fact is that there is now no police stationed here. Our guide said this is because residents have built a kind of self-governed system, and a police presence could actually create more tension. People’s sense of safety comes more from community solidarity and internal order than from outside enforcement.We followed our guide through many murals around the area, and each one told a story. From vibrant paintings depicting local residents’ lives to black-and-white murals reflecting community history, art has become the most powerful form of expression here. The guide also introduced us to the famous Las Madres de la Candelaria (Candelaria Mothers Association). These strong women are a major force behind the area’s transformation. For their lost loved ones, they started a fight for justice and brought hope to the community.

Besides the art, the escalator system installed here is also striking. In the past, residents here had to climb hundreds of steep steps; now, this system has not only improved their daily lives but also become a symbol of the neighborhood’s change.

We also saw some famous photo spots, including the huge sculpture La Mano symbolizing unity, and dramatic murals painted with rich colors and bold lines. These works are not just a visual treat—they are the result of the community’s hard work, full of vitality and creativity.

Of course, along the way we also tried some local street snacks, a combination of fried pork belly, pork skin, and offal served with potatoes, with avocado sauce on the side. It was rich in flavor, very suitable for our taste, and gave us a strong sense of local authenticity.

The most fun part, though, was being stopped constantly by South Americans asking to take photos with us. With signs all over saying that photos cost 2,000 COP, we joked that we should hang a sign around our necks saying the same thing.

Drug Dealing on the Street

When we drove past Plaza Rojas Pinilla (just north of Plaza Botero), our driver specifically reminded us to keep the windows closed, and even turned on the air conditioning (before that, he had driven the previous 20 minutes with the windows open and no AC). He explained that this area is very dangerous and an active drug-trade zone. We even witnessed drug dealing happening right on the street: one person holding a small bag of white powder and another passing over cash.

Compared with this, marijuana and marijuana cigarettes—things more common in the U.S.—felt less shocking by comparison (in fact, those smells were very familiar).

The Botero Museum

At the Botero Museum (Museo Botero), we finally got to experience the unique artistic style of Colombian master Fernando Botero. The museum is located on Medellín’s lively Plaza Botero, surrounded by Botero’s classic sculptures, which feature exaggerated body shapes and rounded lines—I call it the “plump style.”

Inside, there is a large collection of Botero’s paintings and sculptures. He brings that “plump” element into depictions of people, animals, and even still life, showing deep emotion and humor in a distinct way. In addition to Botero’s works, the museum also displays creative pieces by modern artists, including geometric optical illusion paintings, installation art depicting everyday life, and pottery with a strong Latin American flavor. It offers both artistic beauty and cultural depth.

Botero’s plump style is not based on traditional beauty standards, but through exaggerated forms it prompts viewers to rethink body type, identity, and social diversity. The experience makes you feel that art is not just an extension of aesthetics, but a collision of culture and ideas.

Medellín Metro Experience

Medellín’s metro is, frankly, better than Chicago’s metro by an enormous margin! This line is not only amazingly smooth, but the cars are also clean and odor-free. According to the nameplate, these trains are manufactured by Spanish company CAF. One interesting detail: the train doors open slightly before the train comes to a complete stop, which is rare in many places.

Medellín is the only city in all of Colombia that has a metro, and even the capital Bogotá does not, which makes Medellín especially special. The fare system can be a bit complicated, though: you must first get a metro card, which requires a 10,000 COP deposit, then top up the card to pay fares. The fare is charged per ride, not by distance, similar in this way to Chicago’s metro system. So one card can be used by multiple people.

Flight Back to Bogotá at Night

This trip back from Medellín to Bogotá can truly be described as “absolutely unforgettable.” A flight originally scheduled to depart at 20:19 was delayed four times for various reasons while we were on our way from the hotel to the airport to collect our bags. By the time we reached the airport, the departure had been rescheduled to 00:44.

During rebooking, at a point where few people speak English, the staff member noticed we were foreign tourists and curiously asked where we were from. When he learned we were from China, he seemed surprised and said directly, “Why are you here? It's so far away.” In fact, compared with China, we were already close to the opposite side of the world.

The rebooked flight was at a little after 21:00, and we were pretty happy about it, especially since this flight was only 23 minutes long—so short it nearly felt unreal that we had arrived. But the “surprise” didn’t end there. After landing, the plane did not go directly to a jet bridge; it stayed on Bogotá’s taxiway for almost 1 hour. Only when we were sent to a remote stand were we finally able to get off the plane...

Reference Links

[1] Colombia travel practical information: https://www.zla.pub/columbia-travel-info/

[2] Hyatt Place Bogota / Convention Center: https://www.hyatt.com/hyatt-place/en-US/bogzb-hyatt-place-bogota-convention-center

[3] Restaurante Gabo.mde Poblado: https://maps.app.goo.gl/gER9CG38hnGdh9c68

About the Author

This post is reprinted from the reader ZL Asica’s WeChat public account. If you like it, you can follow her blog or WeChat account.