Last year, I had an unforgettable trip to Xinjiang with a few friends. Even before that, I had spent nearly half a year in Greater Urumqi for work, which also gave me the chance to visit many parts of Xinjiang.

Last year’s hit reality show See You Again, Lover did a great job showing off Xinjiang’s scenery. And since traveling abroad still wasn’t really possible this year, why not head to the vast expanse of Xinjiang instead?

I’m planning to write a series of short pieces about Xinjiang, and this one can serve as an overview. If you’re thinking about visiting Xinjiang soon, or have never been before, now’s a good time to start planning.

01 Greater Yili

Some say that if you haven’t been to Yili, you haven’t truly seen the beauty of Xinjiang; and if you haven’t been to Zhaosu, how can you claim to have seen Yili at its very best?

Others say that in May and June, anywhere you drive among Yili Prefecture’s eight counties is beautiful: snow-capped mountains, grasslands, streams, and hillsides covered in wild peach blossoms.

If you visit Xinjiang in late spring or early summer, you can always count on Yili.

Sailimu Lake

Sailimu Lake sits in northern Yili, near the border with Bortala Prefecture. Think of it as China’s version of Lake Baikal, and you’ll get the idea. The lake is about 75 times the size of West Lake, and it takes a full day to drive all the way around it.

The water is crystal clear and glows sapphire blue in the sunlight. Along the lake, the opposite side is lined with dark green forests and rolling meadows. The weather here changes quickly, and it’s not unusual to experience sunshine in one direction, rain in another, and even a rainbow or two thrown in between.

If you walk deeper into the woods on the hills around the lake, it feels wonderfully exploratory.

One thing worth noting is that Sailimu Lake is already fairly well developed, so infrastructure, restaurants, and lodging are all reliable. We stayed at an RV campground this time, and the setup was excellent. Only later did I realize it was the same one featured on See You Again, Lover.

Roaming Guide freshness: four stars

02 Xiata Ancient Trail National Forest Park

Honestly, this was my favorite place in Greater Yili. It had everything I love: glaciers, snow mountains, old-growth forest, streams, flowers, and an unmatched sense of peace.

The Xiata Ancient Trail lies in the far southwestern corner of Yili. Although it’s out of the way, it’s absolutely worth the detour. The area remains largely untouched, with its interior preserved much as it has been for centuries, if not longer. (Hopefully large-scale development can wait a few more years and leave this treasure intact.) In many places, the changes of the last decade may exceed those of the previous ten thousand years.

We stayed at the area’s only hot spring hotel, where you could wake up early and see the morning sun light up the snowy peaks. Then we put on our daypacks and followed the rushing stream into the old-growth forest, across meadows and wildflowers, all the way toward the mountains.

Even though our little group managed to both leave a camera at the entrance and lose a drone that day, Xiata still holds its place near the top of my list.

Roaming Guide freshness: four stars

03 Qiongkushitai

The name sounds a bit rough-and-ready, and the place doesn’t exactly look wealthy either, but during peak season, even with money in hand, it can still be hard to find a room. After taking countless switchbacks from Tekes along the mountain road, you arrive at this small Kazakh village tucked into a valley.

This is a well-known starting point for hikes along the Wusun Ancient Trail. The village is surrounded by mountains on all sides, and the clear Kurdai River runs past houses and courtyards, its rushing water echoing through the valley. The whole village is made up of wooden cabins, most of which have now been turned into guesthouses. Stay here for a night, take in the starry sky ringed by mountains, and the next day walk a short stretch of the Wusun Ancient Trail.

Another fun part of Qiongkushitai is that several boutique inns sit on nearby hillsides with excellent views. At one where a friend was staying, I got to enjoy what was probably the most scenic plate of tomato-and-egg stir-fry of my life.

The mountain road in and out of Qiongkushitai seems endless, so drive carefully.

Roaming Guide freshness: four stars

04 Kalajun

A good friend from Xinjiang once told me, “You have to wake up in the middle of a grassland at least once.” So Kalajun became that place. It’s best known for its undulating “human-body grassland,” with contours that rise and fall like a plotted mathematical curve.

From Qiongkushitai to Kalajun, you can either drive or ride horseback along the ancient trail for about half a day. Herders whose families have lived here for generations operate several yurts within the scenic area. That let us enjoy the quiet of the grassland after the daytime crowds had faded. Watching cattle and sheep slowly head home in the sunset, you really feel how different the rhythm here is from city life.

As the sunset colors spread across the sky, weary eagles return to their nests, and the distant snow mountains slowly dim, it’s time for grilled lamb skewers.

The yurts weren’t especially comfortable, but my friends had planned everything with great care, and the owner even made a special trip to the county town to buy a cake. So I ended up celebrating an unforgettable birthday on the grassland. That night, wrapped in blankets and perfectly content, I went out to photograph the stars and the Milky Way.

The next morning, I finally understood what it feels like to wake up on the grassland: very cold.

Roaming Guide freshness: four stars

05 Tangbula National Forest Park

From Nileke’s “Bee Town” to Qiaerma, there’s a stretch of road of a little over 70 kilometers running along the Kash River. That’s the Tangbula Hundred-Li Gallery.

On both sides of the river are sweeping grasslands, with snow mountains occasionally appearing in the distance, but the scenery doesn’t change all that much along the route. It’s also a place where the weather makes a huge difference. If you’re unlucky, you may find yourself experiencing a misty, rain-soaked “Jiangnan in Xinjiang.”

At Qiaerma, you officially join the famous Duku Highway. Go left and you’ll reach Dushanzi, the starting point of the highway’s northern section; go right and you’ll end up in Kuqa, the endpoint of its southern section.

Before setting out, stop by the Duku Highway Monument. It records the history of a road built with blood and sweat, and you find yourself softly reading the names one by one.

Eternal glory to the comrades who gave their lives for the construction of the Duku Highway.

Roaming Guide freshness: ⭐⭐⭐

06 Nalati and Bayinbuluke

Nalati and Bayinbuluke were two grasslands I had already heard about the first time I visited Xinjiang in elementary school. They were probably among Xinjiang’s earliest famous grassland destinations, which is why they became standard stops on so many tour itineraries. That may also mean the experience isn’t at its best during peak season.

When we passed the entrance to Nalati, the whole road was jammed with tour buses parked every which way, while the streets were filled with noisy touts calling for customers. For us, that was more than enough of a warning to turn back.

To be precise, Bayinbuluk is no longer part of the Ili region. Bayin Town looks a bit better and works well as a stopover for a proper dinner and a good night’s rest during the trip.

The highlight of the Bayin grasslands is the winding rivers and wetlands at sunset. In fact, on the road heading south out of Bayin, there is also a wild grassland that is a lot of fun, with plenty of cattle, sheep, and snow-capped mountains.

Best of all, it’s free.

Wander Guide Freshness: Two Stars

Ili Itinerary and Route

If departing from Yining, you will need about 8 days:

Yining - Zhaosu - Xiata (day 1) - Xiata - Tekes (day 2) - Qiongkushitai (day 3) - Kalajun (day 4) - Nileke - Tangbula (day 5) - Qiaerma - northern section of the Duku Highway - Dushanzi (day 6) - Sayram Lake (day 7) - Guozigou Bridge - Yining (day 8)

Because the northern section of the Duku Highway usually does not open until late June, if that section is still closed, you can only backtrack to Yining first and then continue to Sayram Lake

If departing from Urumqi, you will need about 8 days:
Urumqi - Dushanzi - Sayram Lake (day 1) - Sayram Lake - Yining (day 2) - Zhaosu - Xiata (day 3) - Tekes - Qiongkushitai (day 4) - Kalajun (day 5) - Nileke - Tangbula (day 6) - Qiaerma - northern section of the Duku Highway - Dushanzi (day 7) - Urumqi (day 8)

If the northern section is closed, you will need to make a big detour to get back to Urumqi, so you might consider taking the southern section to Kuqa and then riding the high-speed rail back to Urumqi

02 Southern Xinjiang: Kashgar

In Ili, you see Xinjiang’s incomparable grasslands. If that still does not feel vast enough, or exotic enough, then head to southern Xinjiang. Kashgar, Kashgar, the crown jewel of southern Xinjiang.

01 Kashgar Old Town

Even though the old town has already become highly commercialized, in certain quiet moments, in certain unnamed alleys, in the laughter of children after school, and in the gazes of elderly people resting after a meal, it still feels like another world.

Kashgar Old Town has a history of more than 2,000 years, and many locals still live there today. When wandering through it casually, you sometimes feel as if you have stepped into the backstreets of Yazd or Samarkand.

At dawn or dusk, when you avoid the crowds of tourists, the old town’s tranquility and beauty become even more apparent.

Wander Guide Freshness: Three Stars

02 Baisha Lake

About 150 kilometers west of Kashgar, after passing many small Uyghur towns, the view suddenly opens up on a downhill bend, and you arrive at Baisha Lake. The lake itself is mainly notable for its openness, but the hills of silver sand gathered along the shore are much rarer.

The silvery-white sand dunes are delicate and soft, with more than a dozen hills forming an ink-painting ribbon that stretches for more than 10 kilometers. When the wind blows, they are said to produce a rustling sound like the Singing Sand Dunes of Dunhuang.

In the distance beyond the lake stands Kongur Jiubie Peak. Local people leading camels and yaks around for photo-op business sit by the lake to smoke and chat when they get tired.

Tourist facilities here are well developed, though perhaps that means it has lost a bit of its wild charm.

Wander Guide Freshness: Three Stars

03 Muztagh Ata

Halfway along G314, you come across a mountain and a lake. The mountain is called Muztagh Ata, and the lake is Karakul. The “Father of Glaciers” rises before you just like that.

There is a large open area in front of the lake. When the weather is good, making coffee by the water, having a picnic, and waiting together for the golden sunset glow on Muztagh Ata is incredibly romantic.

If you keep driving all the way to the foot of Muztagh Ata, you can see the year-round snow and glaciers in the glacier park and finally understand why it is called the “Father of Glaciers.”

Wander Guide Freshness: Five Stars

04 Tashkurgan County

We affectionately call it Tash County. On our first day in Kashgar, a taxi driver told us that if you come to Kashgar and do not visit Tash County, it is basically the same as not having come to Kashgar at all.

Tash County sits almost at the westernmost edge of Xinjiang—and of all China—losing by just a little to Akto County. If Kashgar feels exotic because of its architecture and customs, then Tash County feels exotic because of the striking looks of the local Tajik people. Little girls who look like Russian nesting dolls speak fluent Mandarin with you, which really does feel a bit surreal.

Located on the Pamir Plateau, Tash County really makes you feel the vastness of the country.

Q:
Do you like Tash County?
"Kaka: Tash County is just so beautiful. I’ve come here many times, and every time I can capture different scenery. The light is different in every season and at every time of day."

Although it is on a plateau, Tash County’s elevation is only 3100 meters, so altitude sickness is generally not a problem.

Wander Guide Freshness: ⭐⭐⭐⭐

05 Pamir Plateau

The Pamir Plateau showed up many times in middle and high school geography class (my grandfather, a geography teacher, would probably be thrilled to visit if he ever had the chance), but even when you finally arrive in person, you still cannot help but marvel at the grandeur of nature and the smallness of any one human being.

The plateau stretches across three countries. This part belongs to the Eastern Pamirs, where both the absolute and relative elevations are somewhat lower, with a richer mix of lakes, river valleys, and more. Conditions on the plateau can change suddenly; it may go from clear skies to stormy weather in just a few minutes.
That time when I was driving alone across the bumpy roads of the Pamirs, I ran into fierce wind and heavy rain and could barely see the road ahead. I had to drive almost by instinct, and it was honestly nerve-racking.

The road starting from Tash County has many names: the China-Pakistan Friendship Highway, the Pamir Highway, though I prefer the Karakoram Highway. About 1,000 kilometers long, it connects Kashgar with Pakistan all the way to Islamabad. At the end of it within China lies the famous Khunjerab Pass.

The border crossing is currently closed, so you can only look at it from two or three kilometers away. But if you know the right people, you can apparently get all the way to the gate itself. Connections still go a long way here.

Wander Guide Freshness: Five Stars

06 Panlong Ancient Road and Waqia Township

The slogan here is: “After taking every winding road today, life ahead will be smooth from now on.” The number of hairpin turns on Panlong Ancient Road really does exceed all the turns I had ever taken before combined. To make those corners smoothly, you really need serious driving skills.

But what stayed with me most wasn’t Panlong itself, but Waqia Township, the small town beyond the Panlong Ancient Road. After a full day of tiring travel, arriving in Waqia at sunset and looking out over the quiet fields and the lazily wandering cattle and sheep—there could hardly be a more relaxing moment.

The feeling was like Thanos after the snap, staring at the sunset on the horizon. Much later, I saw someone else in a group chat describe how she felt in Waqia, and I suddenly got really excited. Someone else had experienced the exact same moment I did.

Wander Guide freshness: four stars

07 Bandir Blue Lake

When you travel, do you prefer a carefully planned itinerary or an unexpected surprise? For me, Bandir Blue Lake was the latter.

On the way back from Waqia to Tashkurgan, I had only been thinking about pushing on with the drive when suddenly I spotted this reservoir out of nowhere. Then the scenery kept getting better and better, and it started to feel more like a lake. In the end, I completely gave in to Bandir’s blue—absolutely mesmerizing.

I noticed two guys by the lakeside sitting in chairs and drinking coffee. I’m guessing they were probably from Shanghai.

Wander Guide freshness: four stars

Kashgar itinerary and route

Starting from Kashgar, you’ll need about 4 days:

Kashgar (day 1) - Kashgar - Baisha Lake - Muztagh - Tashkurgan (day 2) - Tashkurgan - Pamir - Khunjerab - Panlong Ancient Road - Waqia Township - Bandir Blue Lake - Tashkurgan (day 3) - Tashkurgan - Kashgar (day 4)

There are many other places in the Kashgar region too, such as Shache, Shule, and Yecheng. Southern Xinjiang is even more vast, and Kizilsu, Aksu, and Hotan all have their own distinct character. I haven’t been to those places yet, so I’ll update this slowly in the future.

03 Northern Xinjiang: Kanas

I originally wanted to call this section Altay in Northern Xinjiang, but then I realized I still haven’t been to Keketuohai in Fuyun or Five-Colored Beach, and I also haven’t gone skiing at Jiangjun Mountain in winter. Without those, my Altay experience feels incomplete. So for now, I’ll narrow it down to the very best part of Altay: Kanas.

01 Kanas

May and June are the best season for Ili, while Kanas unapologetically claims September and October as its own. Kanas in a sea of golden autumn color is at its most beautiful—and also at its most expensive. So here, all you get to see from me is lush green Kanas.

Broadly speaking, Kanas includes three similar yet distinct scenic areas: Kanas, Hemu, and Baihaba. Kanas itself is a small but stunning area centered around Kanas Lake, with mountains, lakes, forests, and grasslands. The lake is a deep, clear blue, and the forests are lush and dense. Walking somewhere far from the noise makes you want to sing out loud.

What used to be villages of Mongolian Tuvan people inside the scenic area has now been turned into a range of guesthouses, from basic to upscale. Some are run by Han Chinese, while others are operated by Mongolian and Kazakh locals. I also had an interesting conversation with some local Kazakh kids.

One thing worth praising is how standardized the scenic area management is. No matter where you eat, meat dishes are uniformly 60, dishes with eggs are 40, and vegetable dishes are 25—even if, no matter where you go, they all taste equally bad.

Wander Guide freshness: three stars

02 Kanas hiking

If there’s one thing about Kanas that still leaves me unsatisfied, it’s that as one of the country’s best-known scenic spots, it’s simply too famous. Everywhere is packed with tourists and sightseeing buses, and every stop is a dense crowd lining up for photos.

If you want your memories of Kanas to be more than just hopping on and off buses for photo ops, make sure to do at least one short hike in Kanas.

The highlight is the hike through the three bays of Kanas: Fairy Bay, Moon Bay, and Wolong Bay. Walking along the wooden boardwalk by the river and seeing the scenery at each bend is much more interesting than riding the shuttle. The route is very easy, though the downside is that there are still plenty of people.

Another route follows the shore of Kanas Lake. You weave through the forest, and while the scenery doesn’t change much, you do get to see the famous driftwood quite often. At the end, you climb a small hill and wave to the people on the sightseeing boats, which gives you a tiny sense of accomplishment. This route is also very easy, but the wire mesh laid over the boardwalk is uncomfortable to walk on.

The most challenging route is the Kanas–Baihaba hike, where you cross mountains from one village to another and trek across vast grasslands for a long stretch. The weather can also change suddenly. If that happens, ducking into the yurt of the kind herders from Habahe County and chatting with them becomes a memorable experience in itself.

The full route is long and takes about 6-8 hours. In theory, independent hiking is not allowed in the scenic area, but in practice, if you do it, you do it—the risk is not high.

Wander Guide freshness: five stars

03 Baihaba

From the westernmost edge of the country to the far northwest—this is the kind of northwest where one more step would take you into Kazakhstan.

This was originally a small Tuvan village too. Over the years, locals have rented out their homes as guesthouses and moved quite comfortably to the county seat about a hundred kilometers away. Only in summer do they return to stay in yurts in their own courtyards, while also helping prepare local meals.

After the long hike, soaking my feet in a small courtyard with the warm sun on my body felt incredibly good. Once I got a bit of energy back, I wandered around the village again. The daytime crowds had already returned to Kanas, leaving Baihaba with a quietness Kanas simply can’t match.

The next day, I took the once-a-day bus back down the mountain.
Wander Guide freshness: four stars

04 Hemu

A quick word on Hemu: it’s a village broadly similar to Kanas. Its most distinctive feature is probably the morning scene when mist over the water blankets the whole village. Hemu is also more fully developed—meaning, in other words, more commercialized.

If you’re choosing between Kanas and Hemu, just pick one. It seems the show Goodbye Lover stayed in Hemu.

Wander Guide freshness: three stars

05 Burqin County Town

Whether you leave from Kanas or Baihaba, you’ll eventually return to Burqin, a small county town in the Altay region.

How should I put it? After several days in nature, coming back to “city life” feels pretty nice too. Watching elementary school kids playing in the street parks, Kazakh aunties doing square dancing, and small vendors selling little white apricots—it all feels unexpectedly comforting.

And of course, you can also enjoy a proper meal, since prices here are about one-fourth of what they are inside the Kanas scenic area.

Wander Guide freshness: three stars

Kanas itinerary and route

Flying out from Urumqi, this itinerary takes about 5 days:

Urumqi - Kanas Airport - Kanas (day 1) - Kanas (day 2) - Kanas - Hemu? Wait source says 白哈巴 = Baihaba (day 3) - Baihaba - Wucaitan - Burqin (day 4) - Burqin - Altay - Urumqi (day 5)

The Altay region has Altay Airport, Koktokay Airport, and Burqin Kanas Airport, so if you fly, you can choose which areas to visit selectively. If you are driving from Urumqi instead, add another two days for the road trip to Koktokay.

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About the Author

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